The Tió de Nadal
The star of Catalan Christmas is the Tió, a log with a painted face, little legs and a red barretina cap. From early December, children "feed" it every night and cover it with a blanket to keep it warm. On Christmas Eve or Christmas Day, they beat it with sticks while singing Caga tió! ("Poop, log!"). When they lift the blanket, the Tió has "pooped" sweets and small presents. It's as funny and as loved as it sounds.
The caganer
Catalan nativity scenes (pessebres) have a famous extra character: the caganer, a little figure crouching with his trousers down, usually hidden in a corner of the scene. He's a symbol of luck and fertility, and finding him is a game for children. Today you can buy caganers of footballers, politicians and celebrities at Christmas markets.
Christmas in Girona
- Lights and markets. From early December, the streets of the centre and the old town are lit up, and Christmas markets and craft stalls sell pessebre figures, caganers, tiós and decorations.
- Pessebres. Churches, associations and shop windows set up nativity scenes, some of them huge and very detailed. Many towns in the province stage pessebres vivents, living nativity scenes acted out by local people.
- Els Pastorets. A traditional Catalan Christmas play, part religious story and part comedy, performed by amateur theatre groups across Catalonia.
- A quieter, cosier Girona. Winter days are often cold, clear and sunny, the old town is calm, and there's time for long lunches and hot chocolate.
Christmas food
- Escudella i carn d'olla on Christmas Day: a rich meat and vegetable stew served first as a soup with galets, giant pasta shells.
- Canelons on 26 December, Sant Esteve, traditionally made with the leftover meat from Christmas Day.
- Torró (nougat), neules (rolled wafers) and a glass of cava to finish every meal.
- Tortell de Reis on 6 January: a ring-shaped cake hiding a little king figure and a bean. Find the king and you wear the crown. Find the bean and you pay for the cake.
The key dates
- 25 December, Nadal, and 26 December, Sant Esteve, are both public holidays in Catalonia.
- 31 December, Cap d'Any: people eat twelve grapes at the twelve chimes of midnight.
- 5 January: the evening parade of the Three Kings (la cavalcada dels Reis), the most magical night for children.
- 6 January, Reis, is a public holiday: children open the presents the Kings brought.
Tips for visitors
- Plan for the holidays. Many shops, museums and restaurants close or change their hours on 25 and 26 December, 1 January and 6 January.
- Book Christmas meals early. Restaurants fill up with families.
- Bring warm clothes. Mornings and evenings are cold, even when the sun shines.
- Take home a caganer or a mini tió. They're the most Catalan souvenirs there are.
Learn Catalan at Christmas
Our Nadal festival week follows the Girona Essentials format: Catalan class every morning, then Christmas markets, pessebres and traditions in the afternoons, plus the songs and words you need to "make the tió poop". Small groups, max. 8.
Catalan words for Christmas
- Bon Nadal!: Merry Christmas! Bones festes!: Happy holidays!
- Bon any nou!: Happy New Year!
- el tió, el caganer, el pessebre: the log, the caganer, the nativity scene.
- els Reis: the Three Kings. els regals: the presents.
- el torró: nougat. les neules: rolled wafers.
- Caga tió!: the first words of the tió song.
A year of festivals
Christmas closes Girona's festival year. In spring come Sant Jordi and Temps de Flors, in summer Sant Joan, and in autumn the Fires de Sant Narcís.